A katana and a longsword are both swords you can hold in two hands. A katana is a curved Japanese blade with one edge, worn edge-up at the waist. A longsword is a European weapon with a straight or lightly tapered blade, usually two edges, and a bar across the hilt. That bar is the crossguard. Its arms are quillons. The katana guard is a plate, the tsuba, sitting in front of the tsuka, the wrapped grip. Each sword was built to meet a different hold and a different shell of armor. This page stays with the swords. The people who carried them are on the samurai and knight page.
Weights below are named objects, not a blended average. The Met katana records used here give length and curvature and do not give weight, so there is no average katana weight on this page. One Royal Armouries blade, XXVIS.331, weighs 0.72 kg by itself. When a catalog lists a complete longsword, that weight includes the hilt and pommel. It is not the same kind of measurement as a bare blade.
Side by side
Read the last column as a change in the hand, not as a score. Dates on these objects run from the 15th century into the 17th. A sword of 1420 and a sword of 1620 are not a pair that ever had to meet.
| Feature | Katana | Longsword | What the difference changes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Edge | One edge. The spine is left unsharpened. | Two edges on a straight or lightly tapered blade. Royal Armouries IX.2149 is filed as a two-edged flattened diamond. | You have to present the katana edge. A longsword can cut on the way back without turning over, and in a bind either edge can be the one under pressure. |
| Curve | On the pieces cited here, curvature runs from 9 mm (Royal Armouries XXVIS.331) to 2.6 cm (Met 36.25.1660). | Built straight. IX.2149 is now slightly bent in the plane of the blade, and the Armouries read that as a river find, not as sori. | A curve keeps the edge sliding through a draw. A straight blade puts the point on the line of a thrust. |
| Temper | Clay coat, thicker on the spine. Met: hard martensite at the edge, ferrite and pearlite in the body. The line is the hamon. | Tested medieval blades are uneven steely iron. Some were quenched and tempered. Many were slack-quenched. Hardness jumps along one blade. | A hard edge holds a cut and can chip. A temper is meant to let the body flex and return. Originals often did neither thing evenly. |
| Guard | Tsuba: a plate in front of the grip. Usually no side rings. | Crossguard: a bar whose arms (quillons) stick out. Later hilts add side rings. IX.2149 has straight quillons, curved toward the blade at the tips. | The plate stops your hand sliding onto the edge. Quillons catch a blade running down toward the fingers, and they can hook or strike. |
| Grip | Tsuka, wrapped, for two hands, worn at the waist edge-up. | Hand-and-a-half: one hand or two (Met 14.25.1196). Half-swording puts the second hand on the blade. | Both katana hands stay behind the guard. On the longsword, one hand can leave the grip, so the guard sits between the hands. |
| Typical opponent's armor | Laced small plates on a medieval yoroi (Met 14.100.121). Later Japanese armor uses larger plates. See the armor page. | Mail, then a plate harness. Breiding dates a complete plate system to about 1420 to 1430. Field armor he cites weighs 45 to 55 pounds. | Overlaps and lacing give a slice something to catch. Plate rewards a stiff point in a gap. The swords are answering different shells. |
| Length on named swords | Met cutting edges cited here run from 60.1 cm (91.2.67) to 75.1 cm (Masazane, 2001.574). The catalog calls a katana a curved blade longer than 60 cm. | Met 2006.564: blade 97.8 cm, whole sword 124.8 cm. Met 14.25.1196: blade 93.7 cm. IX.2149: blade 833 mm, and the record says it is slightly shortened. | Reach and leverage change with length. These are catalogued swords, not a rule for every blade in either tradition. |
Curve, one edge, two edges
The Metropolitan Museum's catalog line for a katana is plain: a curved blade longer than 60 cm, in an uchigatana mounting, worn in a waist sash with the cutting edge facing up. On blade 36.25.1669 the cutting edge is 70.2 cm and the curvature is 1.8 cm. A 15th century blade, 36.25.1660, has a cutting edge of 73.6 cm and a curvature of 2.6 cm. A late 17th century Osaka blade, 36.25.1658, has 72.4 cm of edge and only 0.96 cm of curve. Masazane's blade dated 1526 (2001.574) has a cutting edge of 75.1 cm. A mounted sword, 91.2.67, has a cutting edge of 60.1 cm and a curvature of 1.4 cm. Royal Armouries XXVIS.331, signed by Masanori and Masakatsu and dated by the museum to the 17th century, has a nagasa of 694 mm and a sori of 9 mm. On this set the edge runs about 60 to 75 cm, and the bend runs about 0.9 to 2.6 cm. Poster art likes a deep crescent. Several of these blades barely leave a straight line.
A curve changes the cut because the edge does not hit and bounce off in one smack. It meets, then keeps moving along the target while the hands finish the stroke. That slide is a draw cut. The bend helps the edge stay in the cut for that slide. A straight edge can draw too, if the hands pull it, but the geometry favors a chop or a thrust. The longsword point sits on the center line of the blade, so a shove from the back hand drives it. The Met says this outright about sword 2006.564, probably German, about 1400 to 1430: a steep point and a stiff blade, "primarily intended for thrusting," sturdy enough "to pierce armor." That sword is 124.8 cm overall, with a blade of 97.8 cm, and it weighs 3 pounds 7 ounces (1,560 g).
Two edges change the thrust and the bind. A bind is the moment the blades are crossed and both people are pressing. On a longsword, either edge can be the sharp side of that press, and the point is still aimed between them. You can cut on the way out and on the way back without flipping the sword over. A katana has one edge, the ha, and a back, the mune, that does not cut. In a bind you have to keep the edge where you want the cut. The back can take a shove. It will not bite the way the second European edge will.
A fuller is the groove forged or ground along a blade. Dirk H. Breiding, in the Met's 2004 essay on arms and armor myths, says the groove lightens the blade without weakening it or taking away its flexibility. He rejects the name "blood groove." Royal Armouries IX.2149, the 15th century hand-and-a-half sword Oakeshott published as Type XVIIIa, is a flattened diamond with no need of a deep groove to make the point stiff. Other European blades carry a shallow fuller for a long stretch of the edge. The groove is a choice about mass, not a secret about bleeding.
- The katana sits edge-up in the sash, which is the Met's wear, not a movie back-draw.
- The draw brings that one edge out across whatever is in front of the scabbard mouth.
- The curve keeps a length of edge in the cut while the hands finish the stroke.
- The point is still there, but it is not lined up the way the stiff point on Met 2006.564 is lined up for a thrust.
Folded steel and bloomery steel
Hunter starts the Japanese material at tama-hagane, steel from iron-rich sand smelted in a tatara. He is blunt about it: the steel is full of impurities, and the carbon is not spread evenly. Too little carbon and the metal is soft. Too much and it is brittle. Kitae, the fold, is how the smith answers that. Pieces are forge-welded into a block, hammered out, and folded back. Impurities work out. Carbon evens out. The Met's own example is that fourteen folds make over 16,000 layers. That is an illustration of the arithmetic, not a rule that every smith stopped at fourteen. The folds also make the jihada, the surface grain. Masame is a straight grain. Ayasugihada is a curved one. Masazane's 1526 blade is the Met's rare case of ayasugihada outside the Gasan school.
The essay then wraps that harder outer steel, kawagane, around a softer iron core, shingane. The skin holds an edge. The core is there to resist a break. Other Japanese constructions exist. This is the one the Met essay teaches, and it matches the quench: hard where you cut, tougher where the blade has to survive the shock.
European sword iron of the early Middle Ages was bloomery iron. Alan Williams, then archaeometallurgist at the Wallace Collection, put it this way in a 2009 Gladius paper on Viking-age blades: ore and charcoal in a small furnace, the iron never fully melted (pure iron melts at 1550°C), slag still in the bloom. Some of that iron took up carbon and became steel. Sorting the steel out on purpose was, in his words, extremely difficult. Quenching a 0.8% carbon steel could jump hardness from about 250 VPH into the 600 to 800 range, and it also made the piece brittle. A gentle reheating, the temper, was supposed to trade some of that hardness for toughness so a blade could flex instead of chip. Williams says the control was poor, and heat treatment was frequently skipped.
Those Viking blades are earlier than the longsword on this page. The Oakeshott Institute's 18 October 2016 note looks at hardness tests through the 16th century and still refuses a single spring-steel story. Most tested period swords were a steely iron mix. Carbon and hardness jump inside one blade. In their 14th to 16th century group, seven blades ran from 136 VPH to 650 VPH, with piled, billet, core-wrapped, and carburised construction, and with both slack quenches and quench-and-temper work. A possibly 12th century sword in the Wallace Collection (A457), tested by David Edge and Williams at 5 cm intervals, averaged 211 VPH in the middle and 279 VPH along the edge. That is a harder edge than a core, which rhymes with the Japanese idea, and the numbers are far below a modern spring blade held at one Rockwell target.
The practical split is this. Differential hardening, when the clay quench works, gives a katana a hard edge and a body that is tougher than that edge. A European quench and temper, when it works, pulls brittleness back through the section so the blade can bend and spring instead of staying glass-hard. The Institute's point is that medieval steel rarely gave the smith a uniform section to temper. Modern replica steels they list, such as 5160 (about 0.57 to 0.62% carbon) and 6150 (about 0.48 to 0.53%), are mixed to a narrow window. They call homogenous mill steel the largest leap from the original material. If a new longsword flexes and pings back in your hands, you are often feeling that modern steel, not a promise about a river-found blade of 1420.
Tsuba, tsuka, and the cross
The tsuka is the grip: wood over the tang, ray skin, silk cord. Both hands live on it, and both stay on the hilt side of the tsuba. The plate stops the hand running onto the edge in a cut, and it is also a small plate in front of the knuckles. It does not grow side rings. A blade that slides in from the side can still find fingers. The Met lists tsuba with the rest of the mounting, next to menuki and a ray-skin grip, as metalwork around the blade rather than part of the heat treatment.
A European hilt, in the Met Journal account of sword pommels, is three parts on one tang: guard, grip, pommel. The tang is the narrow unsharpened shank forged in one piece with the blade. The guard slides on until it sits against the shoulders, then the grip, then the pommel. The tang tip is peened flat so the stack cannot walk off. The pommel keeps the hand from leaving the end, and it counterweights the blade. On 2006.564 the pommel is engraved MARIA, a pious invocation to the Virgin, and the crossguard has a slight reverse curve.
- Quillons reach sideways and a little forward. A blade skidding down your edge hits the bar instead of the hand.
- The same bar can hook, pin, or strike at close range. The Royal Armouries say swords of IX.16's type used the crossguard and pommel for wrestling and striking.
- Half-swording puts one hand on the blade. That hand is past the guard. You accept the risk because the point, choked up short, can be pushed into a gap.
- Side rings show up on later complex hilts. A Royal Armouries swept-hilt rapier, IX.109, is a different object from the plain cross on IX.2149.
Hand protection is the practical difference. The tsuba guards the slide forward and leaves the sides open. The crossguard guards the slide down the edge and gives you a lever. A later basket covers more of the hand than either of these. You fight with the holes your guard actually leaves.
Draw cut, bind, and the hand on the blade
The katana's home is the waist. Edge-up in the sash means the draw and the cut can be one motion. That is the wear kenjutsu inherits, and it is why curvature is tuned for a drawing slice rather than for a couched lance. The katana page is the place for mountings, the short companion sword, and the long argument about spears and guns on a battlefield. This page only needs the design brief: a sidearm you wear, draw, and cut with, two hands on the tsuka, one edge doing the work.
The longsword is an arming weapon. You carry it when you are already equipped to fight, on foot or from the saddle, and you use it from the bind, from the thrust, and, in armor, with a hand on the blade. Met 14.25.1196, 15th century, European or possibly British, is the clean definition of the grip: the hilt is long enough for one hand or two. It is 122.9 cm overall, blade 93.7 cm, and it weighs 3 pounds 9 ounces (1,616 g). The Royal Armouries description of IX.16, an early 15th century longsword they associate with the kind of fighting at Agincourt in 1415, says the stiff acute point was for half-swording into gaps such as the mail at an armpit. IX.1106, a mid-14th century sword from Lake Constance, gets the same note: stiff, heavy in the blade, specialized for armored fighting and for gripping the blade with one hand. Those notes are the museum talking about use. They do not say every longsword was built to stab plate.
Ewart Oakeshott's typology, as the Oakeshott Institute summarises it, sorts medieval swords by blade and hilt, from The Sword in the Age of Chivalry (1964, revised 1981) and Records of the Medieval Sword(1991). The Royal Armouries call IX.2149 Type XVIIIa in that 1991 book: straight, two-edged, flattened diamond section, pear pommel, straight quillons. Oakeshott's revised date in the Armouries note is about 1400 to 1440. Overall length 1,070 mm, blade 833 mm and slightly shortened, weight 3 pounds 6 ounces. Put that next to the two Met hand-and-a-half swords and you have a cluster, 3 pounds 6 ounces to 3 pounds 9 ounces, for three named weapons. It is not the average of every longsword ever forged.
Names beginners swap
The arguments get messy when four swords are called by one word. Length overlaps. A tachi cutting edge in the Met can sit in the same 60 to 75 cm band as a katana. Mounting is the split the museum actually prints on the label.
| Term | What it names | What people mix up |
|---|---|---|
| Tachi | A slung Japanese sword. The Met says it hangs on a cord with the edge facing down. | Same family of curved single-edged blades as a katana. The wear is the other way up. |
| Katana | Curved blade longer than 60 cm, uchigatana mounting, worn in a waist sash edge-up (Met catalog wording). | Not a name for every Japanese sword, and not the short companion blade. |
| Arming sword | Ordinary English for the one-handed medieval sword worn when a man was armed. Breiding averages that single-handed sword at 2 to 4 pounds. | Shorter grip than a longsword. One hand stays free for a shield, reins, or a second weapon. |
| Longsword | Grip for one hand or two, crossguard, blade often straight and double-edged. The Met calls the knightly version a long sword on a German practice blade of about 1575. | Not a greatsword, and not a rapier. The practice sword in that Met record is blunt on purpose. |
| Greatsword | A two-handed sword of war, larger than the hand-and-a-half. One Met sword of about 1400 to 1450 weighs 5 pounds 3 ounces (2,354 g). | Breiding says these large swords rarely passed 10 pounds. A game that gives one the heft of a sledgehammer is not describing the museum pieces. |
A tachi in the Met, object 10.187.26, has a 16th century blade and a mid-19th century mounting: cutting edge 69.8 cm, curvature 2.65 cm, worn edge-down. Another, 36.25.1679, late 12th to early 13th century, has a cutting edge of 64.3 cm. The steel can look like a katana's steel. The cord and the edge-down hang are the tachi. If a label says "slung sword (tachi)," do not correct it to katana because the blade is curved.
On the European side, the single-handed sword is what English collectors call an arming sword. Breiding's 2 to 4 pound average belongs there. The longsword adds grip length so the second hand can join, or so one hand can leave and take the blade. The greatsword, or two-handed sword of war, is the long one. The Met's British or Western European two-handed sword of about 1400 to 1450 weighs 5 pounds 3 ounces (2,354 g). Breiding's ceiling for that group, rarely above 10 pounds, is the number to set beside a game stat.
Plate, lacing, and which blow matters
Armor picks the blow. Stuart Pyhrr, on the Met's 14th century yoroi associated with Ashikaga Takauji (14.100.121), contrasts it with European plate in one sentence of shop talk: European armor is formed of steel plates, and this yoroi is small plates of iron and leather, lacquered, laced in silk. Overlaps make a double thickness. The lacing lets the skirt telescope when a man sits on a horse. The Museum dates that yoroi type from about the 10th century to the 14th. A slice has cords, edges of plates, and gaps at the joints to meet. A solid breastplate does not offer the same catch.
Breiding dates a developed plate harness to about 1420 to 1430. A field armor, he writes, usually weighs 45 to 55 pounds (20 to 25 kg), with the weight spread over the body, each limb in its own plates and lames. That shell is why a stiff point mattered. Piercing armor, in the Met's words on 2006.564, is the job. Mail still sat in the openings. The Royal Armouries note on IX.16 points the thrust at those openings, not at the middle of a cuirass. Breiding also says a skilled sword could sever a limb and cut through armor. Read that beside the pierce-armor sentence, not instead of it. Some armor yields to a cut. A fitted plate breastplate is the case the longsword point was drawn for.
Later Japanese armor moved toward larger plates. The samurai armor page carries that change. The warrior comparison, including what each fighter actually carried besides a sword, stays on samurai vs knight. For this page the short version is enough. Lamellar and lace make the drawing cut a sensible design. Plate makes the stiff thrust and the hand on the blade a sensible design. Change the armor and the blow that matters changes with it.
How to compare two swords in a museum
Leave the scoreboard at the door. You are there to see what each object is, then what it was built to meet.
- Step 1: Read the label before the blade — Write culture, century, and whether the hilt matches the blade. A 16th century tachi blade in a 19th century mounting is still a real sword. It is not one moment in time.
- Step 2: Copy the measurements in the museum's own units — Separate cutting edge from overall length, and blade weight from the weight of the whole sword. If the label has no weight, leave the cell blank. Do not borrow an average from a forum.
- Step 3: Count edges, then look at the point and the curve — One edge or two. Stiff diamond point or a bend. If the record says the sword came out of a river, a curve may be damage. IX.2149 is the example.
- Step 4: See which part of the hand the guard actually covers — Disc, simple cross, or side rings. Ask where a sliding blade would arrive. Then ask whether one hand was meant to grip the blade past that guard.
- Step 5: Walk to the armor case and stop — Name the shell in the next gallery, plate or laced small plates, and which blow that shell was built to ruin. Write that down. Do not add a winner.
Quiz: katana and longsword
Five questions from the catalog wording, not from a fight scene.
1. How does the Metropolitan Museum say a katana was worn?
- A. Edge-up in a waist sash, uchigatana mounting
- B. Edge-down, slung on a cord
- C. Point-up on the back
- D. Only indoors, never at the belt
Show answer
Answer: A. Edge-up in a waist sash, uchigatana mounting
That is the Met catalog sentence for a katana. Edge-down on a cord is the Met sentence for a tachi.
2. What is a fuller, according to Dirk Breiding at the Met?
- A. A groove that lightens the blade without weakening it
- B. A channel to drain blood
- C. The Japanese hardening line
- D. The disc guard
Show answer
Answer: A. A groove that lightens the blade without weakening it
Breiding says the groove cuts mass and keeps flexibility. "Blood groove" is the myth he is correcting.
3. In the Met account of yaki-ire, what does the thicker clay on the spine do?
- A. Slows the cool so the body stays ferrite and pearlite, tougher than the edge
- B. Makes the whole blade glass-hard
- C. Paints the hamon on after polishing
- D. Welds the guard to the tang
Show answer
Answer: A. Slows the cool so the body stays ferrite and pearlite, tougher than the edge
The thin coat at the edge cools fast into martensite. The thick coat on the spine cools slower. The hamon is the border you can see.
4. Why does the Met say the German sword 2006.564 is stiff and steeply pointed?
- A. To pierce armor
- B. To match a katana curve
- C. Because the tip broke off and was left blunt
- D. So it could be thrown
Show answer
Answer: A. To pierce armor
The catalog text says the point and the stiffness suited a thrust into armor. It does not describe a cut through a breastplate.
5. Which weight is a single Royal Armouries katana blade, not an average?
- A. XXVIS.331, blade 0.72 kg, nagasa 694 mm
- B. One average meant to cover every katana
- C. Field armor at 45 to 55 pounds
- D. Met 2006.564 at 3 pounds 7 ounces
Show answer
Answer: A. XXVIS.331, blade 0.72 kg, nagasa 694 mm
0.72 kg is that blade alone. 3 pounds 7 ounces is the whole German longsword. 45 to 55 pounds is Breiding on a suit of field armor.
FAQs
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between a katana and a longsword?
- A katana is a curved, single-edged Japanese sword worn edge-up in a sash. A longsword is a European sword with a grip long enough for a second hand, a crossguard, and usually a straight double-edged blade. Each was built for a different hold and a different kind of armor.
- Does a katana cut through plate armor?
- A curved edge is built to slice. Dirk Breiding at the Metropolitan Museum describes European plate as a fitted shell of moving plates, and the Museum describes a German hand-and-a-half sword of about 1400 to 1430 as stiff and pointed so it could pierce armor. That is a thrust into a gap or a thin spot. A katana parting a breastplate is a film shot.
- Are longswords heavy and crude?
- Breiding calls that idea wrong. He puts single-handed medieval swords at an average of 2 to 4 pounds, and says the large two-handed swords of war of the 14th to 16th centuries rarely weighed more than 10 pounds. Three hand-and-a-half swords in the Met and the Royal Armouries weigh 3 pounds 6 ounces, 3 pounds 7 ounces, and 3 pounds 9 ounces.
- What does a curved blade change in a cut?
- The edge meets the target and keeps sliding as the hands finish the stroke. That draw is what a curve is for. A straight blade can still cut, and its point lines up with a thrust more directly. On Royal Armouries katana XXVIS.331 the curve is 9 mm on a 694 mm edge, so the bend is often slight.
- Why do Japanese blades have a hamon?
- The Metropolitan Museum describes yaki-ire: clay thicker on the spine, a quench from about 750°C, a hard martensite edge, and a softer body of ferrite and pearlite. The hamon is the visible line between those zones.
- What is a tsuba?
- The tsuba is the guard plate in front of the tsuka, the grip. It stops the hand sliding onto the edge. A plain tsuba usually has no side rings, so a blade can still reach the fingers from the side.
- What is a crossguard?
- The crossguard is the bar across a European hilt. Its arms are called quillons. They catch a blade sliding toward the hand. The pommel closes the other end of the grip and balances the blade.
- What is the difference between a tachi and a katana?
- The Met calls a tachi a slung sword, worn on a cord with the cutting edge facing down. It calls a katana a curved blade longer than 60 cm in an uchigatana mounting, worn in a waist sash with the edge facing up. Mounting and wear decide the name as much as the steel does.
- What is the difference between an arming sword, a longsword, and a greatsword?
- Arming sword is the usual English name for the one-handed medieval sword, the sort Breiding averages at 2 to 4 pounds. A longsword has a grip for one hand or two. A two-handed sword of war is larger: one Met example of about 1400 to 1450 weighs 5 pounds 3 ounces, and Breiding says those swords rarely passed 10 pounds.
- How should I compare a katana and a longsword in a museum?
- Write down the date, whether the hilt is original, and whether the weight is the blade alone or the whole sword. Then look at edges, curve, point, and guard, and read the armor in the next case. Stop before you score a winner.
People also ask
- How much does a katana weigh?
- The Met katana records used here list length and curvature, not weight, so this page has no average katana weight. Royal Armouries XXVIS.331, a 17th-century blade signed by Masanori and Masakatsu, weighs 0.72 kg for the blade alone, with a nagasa of 694 mm. That figure leaves off a combat mounting, and it is one sword.
- Did longswords spring back like a modern blade?
- A quench followed by a temper is meant to take a glass-hard edge back down so the blade can flex. Alan Williams, writing in 2009 on Viking-age swords, says that temper was hard to control and often skipped on bloomery iron. The Oakeshott Institute in 2016 found the same uneven picture on later medieval blades: slack quenches, some quench-and-temper work, and hardness that jumps from spot to spot.
- What does a fuller do?
- A fuller is the groove along a blade. Dirk Breiding at the Met says it lightens the blade without weakening it or taking away flexibility. The nickname "blood groove" is a later story about wounds. The groove is a weight cut.
- What is half-swording?
- The Royal Armouries, describing early 15th-century longsword IX.16, says a fighter could grip the blade with one hand to drive the point into a gap in armor, and could use the crossguard and pommel up close. The hand on the blade is no longer behind the guard. A katana draw from the sash is a different hold.
- Which sword is better, katana or longsword?
- This page does not pick one. The katana was built to be worn at the waist and drawn into a cut. The longsword was built to thrust, to meet another blade on the cross, and to be used in armor with a hand on the blade. Start with the armor the other person is wearing.
One measured curve
Royal Armouries IX.2149 is a straight two-edged Type XVIIIa blade that the same record now describes as slightly curved in the plane of the blade, with a river patina. That bend is damage on a shortened edge of 833 mm. Katana XXVIS.331 has a sori of 9 mm on a nagasa of 694 mm, recorded as slight koshi-zori. Two bends, two causes, both small enough to miss if you only know the swords from a poster.